"So rich people could go slumming? Come on, give me a break [it’s a] masturbatory fantasy for Anna Wintour and Vogue. They always go and try to co-opt what they can’t own. They try to co-opt authenticity and turn it into something boring."

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Throughout my reading life, I've enjoyed many memorable meals-if only fictionally. The oysters at dinner near the beginning of Anna Karenina, the dinner Nana throws for her overflowing guests in Zola's Nana, the walk through Les Halles for breakfast in Baldwin's Giovanni's Room, and nearly every meal in Monique Truong's The Book of Salt.

— Alexander Chee